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Updated: 32 min 38 sec ago
I need to BORROW a windshield from the Anigrand 1/72 C-17. I am working on a C-17 for the National Museum of the United States Air Force and somewhere along the line, the windshield went missing. I need to BORROW one so I can make molds and cast a replacement. Your windshield will be returned to you ASAP in the condition you sent to me. The mold making process does not damage the part. Can/will anyone out there with an Anigrand C-17 help me out? Thank you.
Just curious if anybody has received any issues of the Journal after the July/August issue. I know it doesn't show one after that on the website but I would think we should have one or two more by now. I just want to make sure I have no issues missing. Thanks in advance for any reply's about this. Rocky
My girls got this for me Christmas. I lowered the ride height and modified the exhaust. The paint is Tamiya flat aluminum, the black is Testors gloss black acrylic, and several coats of Tamiya clear. Please excuse the paint I suck at airbrushing.
Looks like long time mail order and wholesaler Squadron/MMD may be out of business. Nothing confirmed, but reliable sources say warehouse is empty. If I'm wrong, let me know. Dak
Hi I just paid for three years and did not receive a member number. Is that sent at a later date? thanks!
Hope that everyone is doing well. I wanted to pass this along to the group. I've not dealt with individual track links before. This kit was recommended to me by one of the staff members at my hobby store. They are the most realistic I've seen. Once the construction is completed, you have a very articulate, and realistic set of tracks. One thing that I look for is natural sag between the return rollers. These tracks have no issues delivering in that area. The kit comes with 4 jigs to make sure everything lines up as it should. The instructions state that no glue is needed. I chose to use Loc Tite superglue to glue the rear track pads down, and to attach the track center guides. I separated, and cleaned up, each of the the parts, prior to putting them in their labeled paint lids. The only parts that I left on their sprues, were the drift pin assemblies. Step 1. Put left and right track pads in jig. Step 2. Insert drift pin assembly. Step 3. Apply a small amount of superglue to each of the holes. 4. Insert rear track pad in the jig. 5. Apply a small amount of superglue to the bottom of each center guide, and insert it into the center holes. 6. Remove track assembly from jig, and cut off remaining sprue. 7. Join completed track sections together. This did take some time. After building 2-3 sections to get the hang of it, I started an assembly line using all 4 jigs. This expedited the process exponentially.I look forward to building these again for another kit. My hats off the Ryefield. Great product!!! Chris
One of the founders of IPMS, whom old-timers will remember as writer of the "Model Enthusiast" column in Air Enthusiast magazine for many years, has died, according to David Riley of AviationPhotographyInternational.com. David sent this message to the Airline Modelers Digest group: "It is with regret that I have to advise the death of Bill Matthews, who passed peacefully in his sleep on Wednesday. I know that Bill is known to many of you here. I met Bill through AMD whilst living in Hong Kong and we have been great friends ever since. On my return to the UK twenty years ago, Bill introduced me to the Portsmouth Branch of IPMS and we have attended their monthly meetings whenever possible since then. The last being in September, just before the next lockdown here in the UK. As many of you know, Bill was one of the original founding fathers for the IPMS and his membership number was 007. Very fitting for Bill, the quintessential Englishman! Like everyone, Bill got frailer as time marched on, but was still modelling until the end. He told me at that last meeting that his latest project was making a kit he had discovered at the back of his cupboard, of a plane I had never heard of, by a manufacturer long departed. He loved a challenge! "Because of his frailty, I took Bill to the IPMS Modelworld event for many years, the last being in 2017, and he was very much venerated by everyone I came across in the IPMS world. One of the IPMS UK Committee once described Bill as one of the most helpful people he had ever come across, and this sums him up perfectly. I always thought of Bill as a true gentleman. He was always willing to take a moment to share his vast modelling experience with anyone who asked him for help." "I will miss him terribly. His wife has asked me to attend his funeral and, subject to covid restrictions, I will do so."
Vinyl kits. Don't like the fish Dave
The sarcophagus was a lot of fun Dave
1/4 scale bust of Thulsa Doom by Kent Kidwell Dave
A new year, and another new project. Continuing my builds for the So Cal AMPS GB of the Patton Tank family, I’m building a M47 this time. I’m using the Testors Italeri kit, but will modify it some by changing the turret grab rails to early configuration, and not what comes in the kit. I will be building this in the markings of the 5th Infantry Division, my first line unit in the Army, during the time that they were stationed in West Germany in the early 1950s, when my father was stationed there. So this project is hitting a few personal areas, so to speak. Anyways, last night I began by completing steps 1&2, essentially putting on most of the suspension. Now after seeing all of Mustang Joe’s gorgeous engine upgrades on all of his automotive builds, I have been inspired to upgrade this power pack area with some plumbing and wiring. I have found some good photos to use as reference. The real question is how much. We shall see...
Awhile back, a friend of mine on another site proposed to do a buddy build with me of a pair of WWI Dogfight opponents. He wanted to build a Fokker Dr.I. So my entry into this buddy build is a Sopwith Camel. It only seems natural to oppose the Fokker Dr.I when he first proposed this buddy build of duelist biplanes awhile back. I have had the old Monogram issue of the classic Aurora kit in my stash and had been pondering building it for awhile. My friend’s idea of a buddy build was the kick in the pants needed to get this one from an abstract concept into something of an actual plan. The next step was to get other projects wrapped up so that I could give this build the attention that it deserves. I had the kit and a set of decals Off of the decal set I selected this particular subject aircraft. With a new year, and now all previous builds on my bench wrapped up, it was time to start.
When I began building models, they ran from 50cents to 99cents. Today I regularly buy kits that go for $50 or more. I remember in the mid-80s when Tamiya was releasing kits that were pricing at around $35 and thinking they are pricing themselves out of business. My point is, "too expensive" is a relative term and means different things to different people. One guy I knew was continually complaining about contest winners always having the "expensive" kits and that it wasn't fair. Yet, I saw him repeatedly spend $50 or more at flea markets buying bunches of crappy old kits like Frog. But buy a good Tamiya kit, no way they were too expensive. Today, for me, $100 is about where I start calling things really expensive. And the prices WNW kits are going for on eBay are definitely "too expensive". So what is your limit? Dak
It comes up now and then, whether it is possible to duplicate vac-u-formed canopies. The answer is yes! I will show you how I do it. First off, the canopy you wish to replicate has to be closed at both ends. If it has already been cut out of it's plastic sheet, you are going to have to devise a way to make it hold a runny sort of product. One way might be to glue plastic pieces to the part that needs to be sealed off, using a glue such as G-S cement, which can later be dissolved with 91% rubbing alcohol, without harming the plastic. BEWARE -- THIS METHOD WILL NOT WORK ON ANY SORT OF "UNDERCUT" CANOPY!!! -- but then, I don't think the vacuform process would either! Next, I dip the canopy into a paper cup full of Future or Pledge or whatever it is now, wherever you are. I do this twice, dipping into the cup, holding the part with tweezers, and allowing to dry on a paper towel for an hour or so between coats. After each dip, I pour the left-over Future/Pledge back into the bottle, then place the now empty paper cup upside down over the canopy, while it dries, to deter any dust. The reason for the Future is twofold. First, to help make certain that the surface of the cast part will be smooth, and also because later on, if the casting doesn't want to come out of the canopy (mold), you can dissolve the Future with Windex with Ammonia D, as it is now called. Don't know why that call it that, but they do. You can also use plain or diluted ammonia, but it will smell really bad! Anyway, except for the Future and ammonia product, our needs are simple: The canopy we wish to copy, and a can of Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. What it was used for originally, I don't know, but it works great for this. I got mine at Home Depot, you mileage may vary.. I just dump some of the Durham's fine powder into a plastic cup, then add a few drops of water, and stir with a cocktail stick. The stuff stirs much like Plaster of Paris, but dries harder (and yellow). You want to mix it until it has a consistency somewhere between chocolate syrup, and pudding. That is, you don't want it too runny, as it will take forever to be dry (and be weak), but also, you don't want it to be so stiff that you have to scoop it into the mold (canopy). Fortunately, it's cheap enough to experiment with! Anyway, just make sure that your canopy will hold water, but your putty mix is more like pudding... Next, mix up the putty and pour it into the mold (canopy). Make certain that the canopy is level. I usually make sure to fill the canopy a bit above level, as the putty will shrink slightly as it settles. I also run a cocktail stick back and forth, to make sure that no bubbles are left against the canopy surface. Getting the right consistency will go a long way toward that goal. Here is what mine looks like, after drying, usually about two or three days: Usually, the Durham's will just pop out with a tiny bit of prying, preferably in an area that is not critical, as the stuff WILL scratch. If not, here is where the Windex D is your friend. Run a few drops along the edge between the canopy and the Durham's, and after a few seconds, you should be able to pop it right out. Lastly, the finished product: Note that any fine rough edges (arrow) can be sanded right off, and the bottom can be sanded flat, if need be. Note the perfectly smooth surface of the molded part, which is of course, a perfect copy from the inside of the canopy, so that after you vacuform it, should create a copy perfect to use -- plastic thickness being about the same as the original copy. If there is a little Durham's residue on the original canopy that you copied, again, the Windex D and a toothbrush will get it right off! Duck Soup, as they say... Now, where did I put that Vac-u-former? Ed
Where do I begin with this tale? Well, I bought it on clearance at the PX on our base when I was on deployment overseas in 2005. I never built it there, so I shipped it home to build at a later date. It is boxed as a F-35A JSF. Fast forward 2005, and I am now live no near Luke AFB and see F-35s flying overhead nearly every day, so I am inspired to build this. I open up the kit, start doing research, and see that this it is not a F-35 as it says on the box, but is instead a X-35. Or at least it is closer to a X-35A than to a F-35A. The basic airframe lines are the X-35, although it is missing several prominent features. And it has multiple F-35A features added like weapons bays and under fuselage contours. The wheel wells and doors are something of a cross between highly inaccurate and fictitious. But hey, I got it for cheap, and I wasn’t gonna let it defeat me or throw it away. So I modified the cockpit, creating a proper instrument panel, modifying the kit ejection seat to resemble the seat actually used in the aircraft, and added some of the missing detail to the otherwise large empty shelf behind the seat. I sealed up the weapons bays, as the X-35 did not have those, added the APU exhaust to the fuselage right side, and modified the kit afterburner nozzle from the F-35 multi faceted style petals to the more standard type used on the X-35. I also took an instrumentation boom from another kit in my stash, and modified it to the configuration seen on the X-35A during flight test at Edwards. I also modified the kit canopy to appear like the two piece side opening canopy of the X-35, rather than the single piece item that comes in this kit. I did not modify the wheel wells or landing gear doors as aside from the nose well, that would have been a major surgery. As would have been correcting the fuselage underside profile. In the end, I have something that looks mostly like a X-35A, aside from the lower fuselage. Thanks for looking, comments and critiques are welcome.
Post photos of your models that are firsts. The first of its kind, the first of a type that you built, the first that you entered in a contest, the first that won a prize in a contest that you entered, the first to achieve something in history -significant or insignificant. Beginnings are the same, the beginning of line, the beginning of an age, the beginning of your collection. We all have something that we’ve built that should qualify.
What’s a good theme for January that we can use an excuse to post more model photos? Beginnings- new items such as prototypes, demonstrators, or leads of the type/class/etc.? Winter White- military equipment in winter guise?
After discussion with Forum/IPMS leadership it has been decided that The Bull Pen section of the Members Forum will be deleted. This action is taken to keep our Forum in line with its stated purpose as well as the the purpose of the IPMS. Model on!
Had to replace my decals from the kit. Polar lights sent me replacement sheet but I guess they up dated their decal sheet. I believe I've figured out where decals 49 go but have no clue where decal 45 is suppose to go. Does anyone have the instructions for the latest issue and can post or e-mail me a scan of the decal instructions. Thanks, Eric
Anigrand 1/144th scale Douglas C-74 Globemaster, 1501st ATW, Brookley AFB, AL, 1949. A really nice kit. Tamiya acryllics and Future floor wax. Kit decals. White metal landing gear from SAC....