New Forum Posts
Updated: 4 hours 56 min ago
First an update. The Monogram F9F-5P Panther I had started suffered a fatal accident. It fell off my workbench & I didn't see where it landed. Rolled my chair back & heard the crunch everybody dreads. I'll keep it for airbrushing practice. So I started on the Kitty Hawk F2H-2P Banshee with plans to do it in VC-61/VFP-63 markings. The cockpit is almost complete so I started assembling the cameras. I'm not sure where Kitty Hawk got their information on what the cameras look like but, they don't look like any that I've ever seen. I spent 18 of my 22 years of military service working in & managing recce labs. I had the opportunity to get up close to the cameras in the RF-4, SR-71, & U-2. These look nothing like an aerial camera. The 1st photo is the camera set from the kit. The 2nd photo is CMK's resin set 4333 for the Tanmodel RF-84F. The RF-84 flew a couple years after the Banshee and would have had similar if not the same cameras. The kit cameras look like they have lenses on both sides in an oblique orientation. In normal operation, a mission might have had a left & right oblique and maybe a vertical camera. They would not have been mounted on the same station. If this is the biggest complaint I have about the kit, I'll be happy.
This is Matador's resin offering of this APC. Their castings are pretty nice but can get a bit rough and they will never be accused of being "shake and bake" kits as the fit is pretty iffy and there were no instructions in the past few I have done, so guessing what some parts are is fun. But, they offer many subjects that no one else does and when done carefully, they make nice display models. The only thing I did with this one was add wire steps/handles on the right side for roof access. Funny, there were locator holes for them, but no parts and with no instructions, no advice to make them out of wire. Also added the stretched sprue antennae.
Here are the final photos of my conversion of a Monogram F-105D kit into the prototype YF-105A, and here is the Build Thread And for a little comparison, the original Monogram F-105D alongside: If you check out the build thread, you will see that it was a long ride... Ed
I was at a non IPMS style contact yesterday.....one I attend annually....and got into a discussion about judging methods. These guys are primarily figure painters and view models differently than most IPMS members. My acquaintance remarked they were admonished not to be like IPMS when judging; "don't count rivets!". I told him we don't do that and I never have, nor have ever been at a contest where I have seen judges apply such stringent measures. However, he and other still believe this silly myth. They are firmly convinced IPMS are insane for accuracy and will throw out a beautiful work for some trivial point. This is a public relation problem we need to address if we want to sustain or grow the membership. It is not something that can simply be ignored in this day and time with in the age of the world wide web. Like all those internet myths that keep making the rounds, it keeps building until it becomes an established truth in the mind of people who should no better. We ignore it at our peril. Dak
As a former crewmember of USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) - X Division, 1968-69, I Have wanted to build a larger model of her for a long time. The 1:200 scale Trumpeter MISSOURI kit provided the basic starting point for this project. I began in 2012 and finished in March 2019 - the complete build log is on The Ship Model Forum under Completed Models. I am posting photos only of the completed model here with a very brief assessment of the kit and overall project: The 1:200 Trumpeter kit for both MISSOURI/IOWA is, at best, a great idea with poor/fair outcome. The hull (common to both kits) is incorrectly molded and needed extensive rework to get the shape fairly close to what the actual ship was built. The 5"/38 dual gun mounts are incorrect for U.S. battleships (they would work for GEARING/SUMNER class DDs) so these were replaced by Model Monkey dual 5" mounts. All fire control directors/RADARs, etc. were replaced as they were incorrect or didn't exist in 1945. I created approx. 15-20 CAD drawings to fabricate equipment that was scratchbuilt for the model. The both masts and all RADARS/fwd. conning tower were all scratchbuilt or modified from the kit parts. I designed CAD drafted 3 sheets of PE parts which I had Starling Models (London, UK) print for me. Pontos provided a teak custom deck set that I gave them specifications as NEW JERSEY in 1967-69 had obvious changes made that I needed modified from their std. decking set. I also used the Pontos Detail Up kit for MISSOURI. Research included one week at NARA in College Park, MD in order to find additional information on NEW JERSEY as well as other ships. The display board and case I CAD designed/drafted and the case was trucked from Hamilton, OH to my home in North Carolina (what an ordeal!!). The model is 53" overall and the case 60" in length.
Two models completed in one year so far!! WooHoo!!
After a few days of working in the Hobby Room, I finally managed to finish five more models. These are my armor models I finished this month. We'll start with the light stuff first. My Italians took delivery of two vehicles. This is the 1/72 scale ACE Trattore Autocarro Sahariano AS.37: I apologize if this is a bit out of focus. The camera had some difficulty trying to focus on such a small model. This one is the 1/72 scale ACE B-1 Centauro "wheeled tank": When I was putting away the instruction sheet for this, I glanced through it again to see if I missed something. I'm glad I did as there are two machine guns that go up top. I promptly got them mounted to the turret: Oh yeah, that looks much better. Next, my Syrians took delivery of a couple 1/72 scale ACE Hell Cannons: I apologize if these are a bit out of focus as well. The camera had some difficulty trying to focus on such a small model. The US Army then took delivery of the 1/72 scale ACE V-100 armored car: And finally for the heavy metal! My British Army took delivery of a new 1/72 scale ACE Centurion Mk.3 And that's all I have for now. Thanks all for looking in, comments are welcome.
If registering online, do I put family members in the checkout notes? --David
All, Was curious if anyone out there has built this kit? If so, did you encounter any fit issues with the wings to the fuselage? I just started it. It’s MASSIVE. Thanks in advance. Christopher
I'm still at it with these old Aurora WW I biplanes. Found this one at a local show and it's bit rarer than others so I snapped it up. It's the Monogram boxing, so the decal locators were removed from the molds, which made life a lot easier. The only thing I did was add a basic interior and drill out the exhaust pipes and Lewis guns. The kit has a four bladed prop, which was only used on Brisfits with a particular engine. In addition, it has a dual Lewis gun mount, which the gunners did not like as it was bulkier and heavier and more difficult to bring to bear on a target. Anyhoo, here 'tis.
King Brian is a character from the 1959 Disney movie Darby O'Gill and the Little People. From IMDB.com : The kit was sculpted Joe Laudati and came in 4 parts - His head, body, cape and base. While the figure is cast in resin, the base was cast in plaster. My guess is to give the base some weight, and the figure is dancing, and all the weight is on one foot. Looking at King Brian's costume, the main colors are 3 different shades of green, and then an orange tan for the vest. The shoes looked black, but I thought a very dark brown worked as well. The coins (and crown) were painted gloss black in prep for painting them with Vallejo Metallics Gold. The face was next, and it was impossible for me to find out the actors eye color, so I just defaulted for brown. Most all the colors were painted and when I went to glue on the cape, there was some filling needed. So I broke out the Aves and blended it in. To attach Brian to the base I added a rod thru his heel into the base. To save some weight the cater made part of the base hollow. No worries - the rod will still hold. Thanks Joe for autographing this. For safety, I added a rare earth magnet to his sole and the base. A few tries and it worked fine... until I added the cape. With the cape in place, the balance was lost and wanted to tip over backward. I figured I needed another rod, and to play it safe I thought that I should fill the void in the base with resin, and then add that rod. Check back for the conclusion. Thanks for looking.
Cutting up a 1.350 Polar Lights Enterprise kit to make a Lynch Class light destroyer. My first attempt at lighting a kit as well, hope to have it ready for Wonderfest and then the Nats!
Looking for the Furball Aero 48010 1/48 A-4 Skyhawk, Lo Viz Devil Dog Scooters decal set. I need the VMA-214 decals specifically. Thank you.
Scale Motorsport has just announced a new super detail set for the Revell GT 40 kit. It is not on their web site yet, but it is up on their facebook page. No information about what will be included but if I know Matthew Wells(and I do) it will be outstanding! Glad to see new product coming out! It has been a while.
She's from the Reaper Miniatures Mousling series. Thanks for letting me share!
Noticed that the category for "Commercial Ships" is not listed for the 2019 Nats. Was it removed from the contest or just a mistake on the category listings? If it has been removed, then what category would a 1/400 Titanic be entered?
Looking for a source for a specific scalpel blade. I'm not sure where I got the top blade but, it has a different curve from the standard one below it. The bottom 1 has been cut off to fit my graphic arts handle. Anybody have an idea?
This is another in this range of OO/HO scale locomotives. The kits are very old and had a lot of flash, sink marks and mold seams. Fit is problematic as well. I removed the molded on handrails and piping on the engine and replaced it with brass and/or aluminum wire. From what I've heard, the markings aren't accurate, but I build these for fun, not accuracy.
All, I wanted to pass this along to the group. I recently completed the Academy 1/35th scale AH-1Z Viper. I like to make my own bases. I can make them any size I need. Just about all the supplies that you need, can be purchased at any home improvement store. The brass tiedowns are from Tom's Modelworks. The tools that I use are to build these are : Portable Table saw, Miter saw, Brad nailer, and air compressor. If you do not have these tools, no problem. Trophy shops carry blank bases that are already finished, and with a decorative edge. They also come in different sizes. Here is my supply list; 3/4" plywood, sandpaper, (The scale of the model will determine the grit that you will use. I use the following as a guide: 1/32nd, 1/35th scale: 80 grit. 1/48th scale: 100 grit. 1/72nd, 1/144th scale: 220 grit.) Blue painters tape, Contact Adhesive, Steel ruler, Magic marker, punch drive set, old cutting board, wall paper seam roller, decorative trim, wood stain, finish putty, and gloss polyurethane. Step 1. Determine the size of the base. For me, I like the base to be just a little bit bigger than the model. Step 2. Cut the sandpaper to fit the base. I like to pose my models on their bases at a 45 degree angle. When I lay my sandpaper out, I stagger all my seams. After all the pieces are cut, I take blue painters tape and tape the top pieces together. I carefully turn the sandpaper over to expose the back side. I take a steel ruler, and black magic marker to establish a grid system. Where the lines intersect, is where I need to punch a hole for the tie downs. Step 3. Punch holes for your tie downs. I use a drive pin punch set to make the holes in the sandpaper. The edge of the punch is very sharp. The cutting board protects the end of the punch to keep it sharp.Place the "old" cutting board under the sandpaper, place the end of the punch over the intersecting lines, take a large hammer ( 22 oz. framing hammer, or small sledge hammer), and squarely strike the end of the punch. Step 4. Attach the sandpaper to the base. Sand the base with 80 grit sandpaper, and tack out with mineral spirits. This helps with better adhesion. Let the mineral spirits dry for about 10 mins before you start. I use contact adhesive on both the wood, AND the sandpaper. I do a section at a time. I tape off the surrounding areas to keep the adhesive where I want it. After I spray both, I let them tack up for a few minutes. Once the pieces are on, I roll them with a wall paper seam roller. Step 5. Dimple the wood for the tie downs. This adds depth for the hole. Because the wood is soft, you need to be careful not to strike the punch to hard. ( the hole will be to deep). Step 6. Attach the Tie Downs. Attach with super glue. Step 7. Paint the base. I use Testors, and Tamiya paints on the sandpaper. Both work great. Step 8 Add the decorative trim edge to the plywood. Stain trim, then coat with gloss polyurethane. After everything dries, I attach the model with super glue on the tires, or skids. Regards Christopher