New Forum Posts
Updated: 11 hours 16 min ago
Lifelike is one of leaders in aviation decals with a unique variety of markings, usually hard to find subjects. This set covers one subject but six variants. I did not have a clue there were this many renditions of "Big Beautiful Doll" (BBD). Three restored P-51D Mustangs sported BBD markings over the years following WWII. Tragically two of these crashed recently, with one in 2011 where the pilot bailed out successfully after colliding with an A-1 Skyraider at Duxford England. The second crash in Arizona resulted in two fatalities in 2016. The six subjects, all markings worn during WWII and flown by John D. Landers and two airframes include: read more View the full article
If you are looking for some unique paints that are solvent based for your latest U.S. Air Force F-22 or F-35, Tru Color Paints has released some Modern Radar Dispersers to help you. The paints have a metallic flake added that only appears once brushed or airbrushed onto the model. The paint is advertised as being able to be airbrushed out of the bottle at 28 to 35 psig, but I added about 30% of their thinner (product TCP-015) in order to airbrush at 18 psig, which is where I usually work, even at this pressure, the metal flakes seem to go everywhere. read more View the full article
Matthew Moss is a British author and historian specializing in small arms development, military history, and current defense affairs. Matthew has degrees from the Universities of Liverpool and Chester and has contributed to publications in both the United States and the United Kingdom. He runs the website Historical Firearms (http://www.historicalfirearms.info/#_=_), a blog that explores the history, development, and use of firearms. He co-founded the Armourer's Bench with Vic Tuff (https://www.facebook.com/armourersbench, https://armourersbench.com,) a multi-media exploration of historic small arms. Matthew has contributed to a number of print and online publications including magazines such as Small Arms Review, Popular Mechanics, The Armourer read more View the full article
The IAR-80 is the best-known production fighter to come out of the Romanian plant during WW2 and has always had a certain fascination for me. Developed in the 1930s as the Rumanian Air Force was working valiantly to get into the arms race then taking place in Europe, the IAR-80 featured a license-built Gnome-Rhone 14K engine and some various bits and pieces purchased from other countries, including the machine gun armament. Despite the comparative lack of experience in such design work, the IAR-80 proved to be a relatively modern and well-thought-out design, although some fixes needed to be included during its design life, including external bracing for the rear fuselage, which had a tendency to twist during high-speed turns. read more View the full article
Short History The Lockheed F-104 Starfighter is a single-engine, supersonic interceptor aircraft which later became widely used as an attack aircraft. It was originally developed by Lockheed for the United States Air Force (USAF), but was later produced by several other nations, seeing widespread service outside the United States. One of the Century Series of fighter aircraft, it was operated by the air forces of more than a dozen nations from 1958 to 2004. Its design team was led by Kelly Johnson, who contributed to the development of the Lockheed P-38 Lightning, Lockheed U-2, Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird, and other Lockheed aircraft. read more View the full article
Tried a new idea for seat fabric. The athletic tape worked great. I super glued the edges just to be safe. I decided to add avionics wiring behind the cockpit hood. I use sewing thread. Put a drop of Elmer's glue between two fingers. Pull the thread thru your fingers. When the glue dries, all the fuzz is gone.The glue also adds some stiffness. All the .50 cal needs is a wash with oils ,then its done. To paint the exhaust pipes, I mixed Testors gold, and silver. Decided to paint all the detail on the tail rotor blades, instead of using the kit decals. Took a while, but I'm glad I choose the paint route.
I bet everyone has some stuff they have been saving for that “perfect” project. What are they and how long have you had them. Mind is the Heller Chebec. I got it in 1979. Dak
Dear members, I need advice on putty-application, as it seems that I am causing a lot of mess when dealing with them. It never dries with a smooth surface, and when I try to sand it, peels off during sanding off, even when left to dry overnight. Some brands dry into a very hard material which is very difficult to even out. What is your favorite putty, as there are many of them around with different handling characteristics, and why do you prefer that particular one?
Found a model of the Spook almost a year ago & finally finished it. The colors are not according to any scheme. If you do a google search, you'll even find him wrapped in a British flag & bowler. The blue is Tamiya Flat Blue; the cape & mask are Model Masters Gunship Gray; his hat band is Model Masters Light Gull Gray; and his hair is Tamiya rattle can primer. I mean, he's 57 years old. He has a right to gray hair. The glossy finish is Future or whatever they call it these days. Had to show that I could actually finish something even if it did only have 4 parts.
I saw this kit at one of the Vendors's tables at the IPMS Nats in AZ. The Kappa comes from Japanese mythology : Kappa considered to be a type of suijin (water deity) that inhabits the freshwater areas of Japan. According to legend, the Kappa is fond of causing mischief and even harm towards humans. A Kappa’s pranks can manifest in the form of harmless jokes like making noises similar to flatulence or looking up a woman’s kimono. However, some Kappa are more violent and have been known to try to drown livestock, kidnap and eat children, and force themselves upon women. Although Kappa are generally considered a force to be feared, there are some instances in which the Kappa are considered to be generous – though this most often happens when a Kappa is indebted to a human being. Some of the most common records of friendly Kappa are early Japanese legends that attribute the knowledge of bone setting and medical salves as being taught to man by friendly Kappa. The kit contains two frets of styrene parts. There are no instructions, but 3 images and corresponding part number to show where they go - The build begins. There are no locator pics and in some spots it's a balancing act to keep the parts where they belong until the glue sets. Felt the need to put some paint on the shell. Primed in tan and then sponge dabbed in Mahogany. A little Ivory added the the belly. Work started on the hair. There is no "cup" as the myth suggests, just a bald spot. I could have added one, but just didn't. While the idea of the tab on the hair fits into the slot on the bald spot looked good on computer, it didn't really work, besides the first one. In the end the tabs were cut off and the hair superglued into place. There was also gaps, and some Aves came to the rescue there. Painting 90% complete. The model comes with two round stones in his upturned palm that isn't added yet. I didn't look up the meaning of that. Nothing was mentioned in the summaries, and everything written on the box is in Japanese. The kit comes with a super simple base of just a log stump or is it just a large rock? Anyway too simple for me. So I took some foam out of my "foam box" and started carving a shoreline. He'll go on one of the stones in the water. Check back for completion.
Hi Guys I was having a conversation at Telford with one of your countrymen and the USA National Convention came up in our discussion. One of the things we talked about was that the convention moved annually and various chapters took on the responsibility of running the event. I surmised that this was due to the vast distances between cities in the USA so that everyone has a fair crack at the convention being closer (relatively) in due course as years go by. He agreed that this was probably the case, but also surprisingly he said that he wished that the convention was held at the one venue all the time close to a large city with an international airport close by with good road and rail links. He also mentioned that he would like to see the governing body of IPMS USA run the show in a similar fashion to IPMS UK. That way the US convention could develop it into a show similar to IPMS UK scale Modelworld at Telford as he felt that the convention although very good each year could not go any further than the current format. He also mentioned that this may be due to the financial responsibility that the chapter takes on when it is their turn to run the event. I suggested to him that IPMS USA probably has insurance in place to cover the risks for the chapter involved and explained that IPMS UK has approached this differently and become a limited company to protect every one of its members. It was interesting to speak to a stateside member and share information about our different approaches. Personally, I have not been to any USA Convention so far but would very much like to as I have heard that us Brits are always made to feel very welcome at your main event.
So, if I manage to be able to afford to go this year I will probably have to fly and at $16 a day for car parking at the Read I will probably try to avoid a rental. What are the options on getting from the airport to the hotels? Am I stuck with Uber or Lyft?
Had a bit of fun with this. Used left over bits of wood decking from another kit to give the ship a "real" wood deck. Replaced the catwalk with thinner stock and veneered it as well. Replaced the kits smoke stack and other piping. Replaced all masts, spars and davits with rod stock and brass wire. Added PE railing and rigging from stretched sprue and a new wooden plaque for a base. Fun little project.
Hello, everyone I have an idea for the next model, it is supposed to be Wedell Williams model 45. I intend to make the model from scratch in 1/32 scale as my other models of racing aircraft. I have some source materials that will help me during construction: I have also found on the Internet a few archival photos of this plane and photos of the replica. I have a question, do you have any pictures of the interior of the pilot's cabin, silinics chassis and other details (can there be pictures of the replica)? I tried to contact the Wedell- Williams Memorial Aviation & Cypress Sawmil Museum. They have a beautiful replica of this plane there so you could take a few photos, I am waiting for a response.
Well, it's the second day of a new year and yesterday I actually finished a Shelf Queen of four years. This beastie fought me like the Boeing 737 did but I am more thrilled with the finish of this model that the other. I present to you my first model of 2019, the Heller 1/72 scale C-118 transport plane: It feels good to start the year with this thing out of what's left of my hair. Unlike the Boeing, I think I'll be taking this to contests. It most likely won't place, but it's gonna look great on the tables! Thanks all for looking in, comments are welcome!
Hello all and Happy New Year! I got an early start on building this year so here is the latest work I got done. Before I do that, here's a couple pics of the projects I've got on my workbench at the start of the year: Now at least one of those got done already, but here's the progress I made on everything first. I'll start with my aircraft... On the C-118, I got the decal fixed that had been broken. This was then clearcoated with a gloss to protect it from being broken again. Here's what it looked like: And here's the decal after the fix: After that dried, I decided to remove all the window masking before moving on: Once done there, I turned it over and installed the landing gear: After that, I had to complete the propellers. I did that and added them to the model. It is now finished and can be seen in the Aircraft Forums... Moving on to my armor, I decided to move on another of my armor shelf queens. This is the Russian BREM vehicle and I finished adding the tracks to the other side: After they dried, I added the side skirts to this. They needed quiet a bit of filler between sections given how poorly this was molded: Finally I added most of the remaining fiddly bits and the boom crane. This beastie is ready for paint now: After all that, I was ready to start something newer and easier. I pulled out one of my Christmas presents and got started on it. This is the Russian T-28 tank that got started thus. They have a solid run of tracks molded with the wheels on. I just had to add the other side of the wheels: After I got done with that, I snapped them onto the lower hull. What a great fit! This was so easy: This tank comes with suspension covers so I snapped them on to see how they fit. This is gonna be a breeze to paint: Next I started on the upper hull, adding most of the detail parts to it: As that was drying, I started on the main turret, getting almost all of it done: I then got half of the secondary turrets done and a few other little details and then snapped this whole thing together to see how it's gonna look. This is all of eleven minutes of work: Wow, that went fast so I pulled out another Christmas present; the Japanese Chi Nu medium tank. I started with the wheels and tracks since this one also had a full run of tracks molded onto half the road wheels: Then I added the suspension parts to the lower hull: Next was to add most of the detail parts to the upper hull. I didn't even take it off the sprue; that made for easier handling: After assembling the turret, I snapped this whole thing together to see how it's gonna look. Here's another six or seven minutes of work: Finally, I started a model for the Cauldron of War Campaign here on the Alliance. This is a resin hull and turret conversion set that is enhanced by parts from the Dragon kit. I decided to skip the running gear and go straight to adding most of the parts to the upper hull. You can see one of the hatches got lost so I added one from the Dragon kit: Next I added that big honking gun to the turret. What a nose: Now there is the whole thing sitting together so far. I haven't got the engine deck glued down yet. I'm trying to find out if it is the right one: That's all I have so far. There's no instruction sheet with this conversion set for me to determine where some of the extra resin parts go so I'll have to start looking at more pics of this tank. This build might take awhile. Well, that's all I got done on my first day of the New Year. I hope you enjoyed the Grand re-opening again. Thanks all for looking in, comments are welcome.
This little gem has been on my build table for some time. Its taken a back seat to other projects. I started this several months ago. For a kit of this size, and detail, the price was amazing. I paid $30.00. I also got a rotor fold kit from Scalewarship Ltd. The one thing that stands out to me is the fit of all the parts. Simply amazing. The clear parts are thin, and crystal clear. Best I've ever seen. Decals look awesome as well. The instructions are a little busy, but very detailed. My ONE and only complaint is the lack of any rivet detail. I have some rivet decals that I MIGHT put on, I'm not sure at this point. I did purchase 3 different sets of Big Ed PE to kick it up a notch. Big Ed even included covers for the directional control petals. I built the base that it will sit on some time ago. I made a stencil for the "H" out of a manila folder. The base consist of 3/4" plywood covered with 100 grit sandpaper. The base was painted with Testors Model Master Enamels. I added oak floor molding to three sides to give it a finished look. The plaques were made by a trophy shop near my home. Took about 3 hours to make the base. I usually build my bases large enough that the model will be protected on all side, if you push it up against a wall. Since the rotors will be in a folded configuration, it won't take up much space in my collection. Thanks for looking.
This is a long shot, I know. But, a client commissioned an 18" Jupiter II kit and provided all the aftermarket goodies. Including the Moebius Lighting Kit # MOE2097. Unfortunately, when I was burglarized, the idiots were taking things at random after they took my computers and printers. Airbrushes and random kits were part of it, including a boxtop only. They didn't touch the Jupiter II or any of the aftermarket parts...except for the lighting kit. Naturally the most expensive item to replace...if it can be replaced since it was a limited run. So, by any miracle, is there anyone who bought the kit and decided not to use it? Or maybe bought two of them in case someone might be looking for one? I'd be forever grateful to anyone who could help. Richard
My ICM 1/48th Mig-25 is almost done.