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All, Was curious if anyone out there has built this kit? If so, did you encounter any fit issues with the wings to the fuselage? I just started it. It’s MASSIVE. Thanks in advance. Christopher
I'm still at it with these old Aurora WW I biplanes. Found this one at a local show and it's bit rarer than others so I snapped it up. It's the Monogram boxing, so the decal locators were removed from the molds, which made life a lot easier. The only thing I did was add a basic interior and drill out the exhaust pipes and Lewis guns. The kit has a four bladed prop, which was only used on Brisfits with a particular engine. In addition, it has a dual Lewis gun mount, which the gunners did not like as it was bulkier and heavier and more difficult to bring to bear on a target. Anyhoo, here 'tis.
King Brian is a character from the 1959 Disney movie Darby O'Gill and the Little People. From IMDB.com : The kit was sculpted Joe Laudati and came in 4 parts - His head, body, cape and base. While the figure is cast in resin, the base was cast in plaster. My guess is to give the base some weight, and the figure is dancing, and all the weight is on one foot. Looking at King Brian's costume, the main colors are 3 different shades of green, and then an orange tan for the vest. The shoes looked black, but I thought a very dark brown worked as well. The coins (and crown) were painted gloss black in prep for painting them with Vallejo Metallics Gold. The face was next, and it was impossible for me to find out the actors eye color, so I just defaulted for brown. Most all the colors were painted and when I went to glue on the cape, there was some filling needed. So I broke out the Aves and blended it in. To attach Brian to the base I added a rod thru his heel into the base. To save some weight the cater made part of the base hollow. No worries - the rod will still hold. Thanks Joe for autographing this. For safety, I added a rare earth magnet to his sole and the base. A few tries and it worked fine... until I added the cape. With the cape in place, the balance was lost and wanted to tip over backward. I figured I needed another rod, and to play it safe I thought that I should fill the void in the base with resin, and then add that rod. Check back for the conclusion. Thanks for looking.
Cutting up a 1.350 Polar Lights Enterprise kit to make a Lynch Class light destroyer. My first attempt at lighting a kit as well, hope to have it ready for Wonderfest and then the Nats!
Looking for the Furball Aero 48010 1/48 A-4 Skyhawk, Lo Viz Devil Dog Scooters decal set. I need the VMA-214 decals specifically. Thank you.
Scale Motorsport has just announced a new super detail set for the Revell GT 40 kit. It is not on their web site yet, but it is up on their facebook page. No information about what will be included but if I know Matthew Wells(and I do) it will be outstanding! Glad to see new product coming out! It has been a while.
She's from the Reaper Miniatures Mousling series. Thanks for letting me share!
Noticed that the category for "Commercial Ships" is not listed for the 2019 Nats. Was it removed from the contest or just a mistake on the category listings? If it has been removed, then what category would a 1/400 Titanic be entered?
Looking for a source for a specific scalpel blade. I'm not sure where I got the top blade but, it has a different curve from the standard one below it. The bottom 1 has been cut off to fit my graphic arts handle. Anybody have an idea?
This is another in this range of OO/HO scale locomotives. The kits are very old and had a lot of flash, sink marks and mold seams. Fit is problematic as well. I removed the molded on handrails and piping on the engine and replaced it with brass and/or aluminum wire. From what I've heard, the markings aren't accurate, but I build these for fun, not accuracy.
All, I wanted to pass this along to the group. I recently completed the Academy 1/35th scale AH-1Z Viper. I like to make my own bases. I can make them any size I need. Just about all the supplies that you need, can be purchased at any home improvement store. The brass tiedowns are from Tom's Modelworks. The tools that I use are to build these are : Portable Table saw, Miter saw, Brad nailer, and air compressor. If you do not have these tools, no problem. Trophy shops carry blank bases that are already finished, and with a decorative edge. They also come in different sizes. Here is my supply list; 3/4" plywood, sandpaper, (The scale of the model will determine the grit that you will use. I use the following as a guide: 1/32nd, 1/35th scale: 80 grit. 1/48th scale: 100 grit. 1/72nd, 1/144th scale: 220 grit.) Blue painters tape, Contact Adhesive, Steel ruler, Magic marker, punch drive set, old cutting board, wall paper seam roller, decorative trim, wood stain, finish putty, and gloss polyurethane. Step 1. Determine the size of the base. For me, I like the base to be just a little bit bigger than the model. Step 2. Cut the sandpaper to fit the base. I like to pose my models on their bases at a 45 degree angle. When I lay my sandpaper out, I stagger all my seams. After all the pieces are cut, I take blue painters tape and tape the top pieces together. I carefully turn the sandpaper over to expose the back side. I take a steel ruler, and black magic marker to establish a grid system. Where the lines intersect, is where I need to punch a hole for the tie downs. Step 3. Punch holes for your tie downs. I use a drive pin punch set to make the holes in the sandpaper. The edge of the punch is very sharp. The cutting board protects the end of the punch to keep it sharp.Place the "old" cutting board under the sandpaper, place the end of the punch over the intersecting lines, take a large hammer ( 22 oz. framing hammer, or small sledge hammer), and squarely strike the end of the punch. Step 4. Attach the sandpaper to the base. Sand the base with 80 grit sandpaper, and tack out with mineral spirits. This helps with better adhesion. Let the mineral spirits dry for about 10 mins before you start. I use contact adhesive on both the wood, AND the sandpaper. I do a section at a time. I tape off the surrounding areas to keep the adhesive where I want it. After I spray both, I let them tack up for a few minutes. Once the pieces are on, I roll them with a wall paper seam roller. Step 5. Dimple the wood for the tie downs. This adds depth for the hole. Because the wood is soft, you need to be careful not to strike the punch to hard. ( the hole will be to deep). Step 6. Attach the Tie Downs. Attach with super glue. Step 7. Paint the base. I use Testors, and Tamiya paints on the sandpaper. Both work great. Step 8 Add the decorative trim edge to the plywood. Stain trim, then coat with gloss polyurethane. After everything dries, I attach the model with super glue on the tires, or skids. Regards Christopher
This was a difficult build because it's a limited run style kit. It does have some very nice resin and PE details, but very few locating pins, fair to poor fit, and you really need to deviate from the instructions to get the best results. The kit decals are one of the better items included, though I only used the data, stenciling, modexes, and stars. The nose art and others are from an aftermarket sheet. Here's a link to the in progress shots on Agapemodels if you want to see how it was built: https://www.agapemodelersforum.com/index.php?topic=23336.0 I used AK metalics Aluminum for the overall finish and then did the varying panels with Alclad Dull Aluminum. The red is Testsors (small bottle) enamel thinned with lacquer thinner. I made the gun barrels from steel tubing. I'm happy with the result, but I can't really recommend this kit to others unless you have some experience with limited run kits, vacs, or resin kits. There's a lot of re-engineering and alterations needed to get the best result. Comments, questions, and critiques welcome, as always. Cheers! GIL
This is Hasegawa’s Vanship in 1/72. https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0q5oqs3qcpRtc A Vanship is a flying machine from the anime TV series “Last Exile: Fam, The Silver Wing”. I actually saw the model first and was intrigued by the design, so I watched the series. It’s pretty good. What attracted me by the design was the mix of retro styling combined with a sci-fi element. It’s similar to steampunk, but instead of victorian era designs, this is looks more 1930s or so. I used Mr Hobby Surfacer for the primer. The metal bits towards the front were done using Mission Models chrome over Tamiya gloss black. I kept the coverage thin to make the metal look dark. The metal bits at the rear were done using various Testors/Model-Master flat metallics dry brushed over Tamiya flat black. (I’m experimenting with various ways to simulate metals). The red and white bits were painted with Mission Models paints and then covered with Tamiya’s clear gloss. I used no clear coat over the metal bits. This is the first model I’ve done that needed to be finished glossy. All my previous stuff were finished in flat, and while there may have been an intermediate gloss coat for decals and/or weathering, I didn’t really care how good the gloss looked because I was just going to spray over it in flat. Not so on this model; the subject is supposed to have a gloss finish. While the result isn’t terrible, it certainly doesn’t look like it’s going to ripple if it’s touched. I’ve seen much better gloss coats, albeit on larger scale models. I tried using a bit of Novus #2 on the gloss coat, with no effect. That Tamiya gloss dries hard.
I recently started building Takom’s Krupp 420mm Howitzer (Big Bertha) and one of the schemes is for a gray, green and brown version. Im hoping someone can steer me towards which gray the German military used during WW I. It looks a bit like the early WWII gray seen on German Armor, but I don’t know. Any help you all could offer would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you!!!
Selling the last released detailing sets of Metallic Details: Jet nozzles for aircraft model B-1B Lancer (Revell) in scale 1/48 - $44.50 Set contains 26 resin parts (16 main parts of the nozzle and 10 sprues with rods) for detailing of jet nozzles. Air intakes for aircraft models MiG-25 (ICM) in scale 1/48 - $18.25 Set contains 4 resin parts and photoetched board (53*145 mm) for detailing of air intakes for aircraft models MiG-25 (ICM). Seat belts for aircraft models MiG-25 (ICM) in scale 1/48 - $6.85 Set contains photoetched board (25*32 mm) for detailing of seat belts for aircraft models MiG-25 (ICM). Detailing set for aircraft model MD-87 (AMP) in scale 1/144 - $8.00 Set contains 1 photoetched board (35*47 mm) for exterior detailing. Detailing set for aircraft model Tu-134 (Zvezda) in scale 1/144 - $8.00 Set contains 1 photoetched board (35*47 mm) for exterior detailing. Detailing set for aircraft model IL-62 (Zvezda) in scale 1/144 - $12.55 Set contains 1 photoetched board (70*70 mm) for exterior detailing. Antennas and sensors of Soviet civil aviation in scale 1/144 - $4.56 25 pcs. Tiny Tim rocket in scales 1/48 - $8.55 Set contains 4 resin parts and 16 photoetched parts for building 2 rockets Tiny Tim. Tiny Tim rocket in scales 1/72 - $5.70 Set contains 4 resin parts and 16 photoetched parts for building 2 rockets Tiny Tim. U.S. WWII universal trailer Mk. 2 in scales 1/48 - $16.00 Set contains 24 (2*12) resin parts for building 2 trailers. U.S. WWII universal trailer Mk. 2 in scales 1/72 - $9.15 Set contains 24 (2*12) resin parts for building 2 trailers. Tiny Tim with trailer in scales 1/48 - $12.30 Set contains 16 resin parts and 8 photoetched parts for building 1 rocket Tiny Tim and 1 trailer. Tiny Tim with trailer in scales 1/72 - $7.45 Set contains 16 resin parts and 8 photoetched parts for building 1 rocket Tiny Tim and 1 trailer. U.S. WWII Small wall tent in scale 1/72 - $10.30 1 pcs. No Assembly required. U.S. WWII Pup tent 2 x in scale 1/72 - $4.60 1 pcs. No Assembly required.
I have always wondered what kind of upfits or refits occurred before the Motion Picture Enterprise hit the big screen so I came up with my version of a "tweener" Kongo represents the time period between the Star Trek tv series and the Motion Picture Enterprise. Kongo has phaser bumps/turrets, a scratchbuilt torpedo pod on the connecting dorsal, the deflector has been recessed into the secondary hull, I painted/added the windows for the arboretum and gave the ship custom nacelle caps at both ends courtesy of JT Graphics. The ship was finished in a 4 color Aztec pattern to more closely resemble her big screen sister.
This is a scratchbuilt "Doomsday Machine" from the original Star Trek TV show episode with the same title. Build is made out of sheet styrene, blue tape, foam board, newspaper, gesso soaked toilet paper and the outerskin is plaster infused gauze (rigid wrap) Light source is a Gemmy holiday light projector I picked up at home depot illuminating translucent piece of plastic from a 3 ring binder. Painted with acrylics. Hope you enjoy! Doomsday 2.MOV Doomsday 2.MOV
Does anyone have a Monogram AT-6 Texan kit they'd be willing to part with for not a lot of money? Need it for an article in a British magazine...which doesn't pay much. Later, it may wind up as one of my Modelbuilding Guides. Would be happy to mention your name as to how I found the kit. Why not use my own? Simple. I was burglarized a year and a half ago and didn't think they took more than a couple or three kits. Wrong! Went looking for the T-6 today and discovered an entire box...or maybe two...of classic Monogram kits missing!!! Anyway, any help would be appreciated.
I recently completed the Sword 1/72nd scale kit of the Northrop N-9M Flying Wing. The aircraft (later, slightly different version N-9MB) has been in the news lately, since the restored prototype, owned by Planes of Fame, suffered a horrific crash, killing her pilot. Description of my model project can be found on my own Web site: https://www.somanyaircraft.com/models/projects/2019/n9m/